This post was originally published in October 2016.
Have you ever been relaxing in the pool, so nice and cool, but then realised that you drink is “way over there”? Or worse still, it’s inside! This is a fun and easy DIY that you can do to keep your refreshments close at hand in a floating drinks holder.
What you need:
1 pool noodle
Strong glue, that will hold in water
Ice-cream tub lid or piece of firm flat plastic
Plastic cup or cooldrink can (stay away from glass, as you don’t want to risk any breakages)
Elastic bands (optional)
What to do:
Start by cutting two pieces of pool noodle, equal length, about 20 cm long.
The next part is the trickest part of the whole process. Using the size of your cup as a guide, cut semi-circles into the centre edge of each piece of pool noodle. Cut to the middle of the pool noodle. You’ll then need to cut a straight line, perpendicular to your semi-circle, making the base for your cup to sit on. This will then allow you to remove the chunk of pool noodle. If your cup is curved, like mine, get the size of the semi-circle correct and then add in a bit of a slant, by cutting some extra away from the top at an angle.
Keep placing the two parts together to check that your circles are still meeting up and that the cup fits neatly in the hole. Add a little personal touch with some paint.
Glue the two pieces together with a strong glue. Run glue along the full width of the join, on the underside.
Lastly, use a piece of firm recycled plastic, to reinforce the back, by glueing it onto the underside of your floating drinks holder.
Alternatively you can use colourful elastic bands as the additional support to hold the pieces in place.
Enjoy your summer swimming! Have you been brave enough to get into the pool or ocean yet?
Every space, big or small, has the potential to be something magical. And when Dulux launched their colour of 2019, Crème Brulee, and asked us to create said magic, we knew a little rondawel on Germarie’s farm was going to makeover heaven very soon. We didn’t grasp how many hours of painting would have to go into this little spherical home, but it was all worth it. Now, the rondawel is a bright and cheerful space that is a joy to stay in!
Here is what went on behind the scenes!
The rondawel was in a shoddy, but admittedly colourful, state. However, the interior called for a neutral canvass as the original colours were dated and mismatched. Some of the stone interior walls may look like natural stone (and they are underneath the paint) but is a faux stone paint effect that had to go. Electrical wiring was one of the first to-dos on the list with a proper kitchen unit hot on its heels.
We really did receive bucket loads of paint. We received paint in the full complimentary palette: rich Crème Brulee, a gorgeous berry red, charcoal, cool teal, pale grey and a soft, dusty pink. Germarie aimed to keep the walls relatively neutral, except for a Crème Brulee feature wall, with the pops of colour in repurposed furniture and décor. For the detailed list of colours and Dulux paint codes, click on this link!
Armed with loads of colour, we were ready to get our hands dirty.
1// The Walls & Floor
After the electrical was all sorted, we painted the interior walls, ceiling, and window trim in crisp white. It’s strange how oppressive the previous blue and brown wall colours made the room feel. Now that it was all white we could finally take a step back, breathe and see its true potential.
Since the rondawel is spherical and built with river stone, we needed a flat surface for wall décor and to conceal electrical wiring. Germarie decided to add two complementary MDF panels that were painted a dusty pink. We also gave the floor a coat of charcoal epoxy to finish the base of the interior.
2// The Furniture
Then we moved on to the furniture. I started with smaller pieces first — especially those I could move out of the rondawel to dry, which enabled me to get going on bigger pieces. Our focus was on painting as many items as possible to show that most pre-loved décor and furniture can be made amazing again.
I loved painting these little compressed wood side tables. These tables are inexpensive and sturdy which mean many homes have one, but they tend to end up with a tablecloth of some sort on top of them.
The texture of the compressed wood is not ideal, and I was sceptical about the effect the paint would have. But, I was so thrilled when Dulux’s acrylic paint soaked into the wood and formed a smooth layer on top! The top layer still has a little texture to it, but it’s not rugged. I love it and would definitely use this specific type paint for a similar project again.
A vintage armchair got a dramatic berry red makeover, finished with newly upholstered cushions with fabric from Hertex. We cannot get enough of this chair, and we love the floral print.
A family dining table, painted in blue with fish to resemble the ocean, went through a grey transformation to become a sophisticated Scandinavian take on colour.
We added a red chair because we wanted to – and it turned out to add a touch of wabi-sabi.
3// The Kitchen
The kitchen was in desperate need of a little clarity. So, we took the sturdy kitchen cabinet (there were two) and painted it fiery red. Germarie was able to envision a simpler kitchen area with a customised countertop which the rondawel direly needed.
Two floating shelves were installed to hover above the new kitchen counter, and Germarie made the L-brackets entirely out of wood. Now the kitchen is a spacious area that caters to holiday guest or small-home living alike.
4// The Roof
The roof was something Germarie or I have never attempted before, and after receiving wisdom from local painters in the area, we decided not to try it ourselves. The roof is super slanted, near 45˚ angle, so we decided to enlist the help from an experience roof painter (he may have been a trapeze artist in a previous life).
5// Final Touches
The final touch was the feature wall. Germarie created a contemporary Crème Brulee effect that adds to the earthiness and laidback sophistication of the interior.
After a couple of tough weeks the rondawel is now move-in ready and a happy sight indeed!
Additional items we needed come from Mr Price Home’s botanical-inspired catalogue.
Anywhere you stay, from a rental to a permanent home; your clothes will need a mini home too. Some places don’t have built-in cupboards but do not fret, we’ve got an easy clothing rack solution! We were looking for a portable wardrobe rail for the Airbnb project we’re busy with when Germarie decided to make a Scandinavian-inspired one instead!
How to make your own Portable Clothing Rail
Time: 2 hours
4 x 22mmx44mmx1.8m Pine PAR
2m Sash Cord
1 x 19mm Dowel
1x ready-made pine racking (1mx40mm)*
Small roller sponge
19mm spade drill bit
* Keep your eyes peeled for ready-made pine racking at the hardware store, they are often cheaper than making something similar yourself.
1 x 22mmx44mmx1.8m Pine PAR for a strengthening base frame
A base frame isn’t essential, but if you’re making the wardrobe rail for daily use, it’s best to make it sturdy.
Start with the large top holes first. Measure 50mm from the top edges of the pine batons and mark the centre spots where the drill bit should fit.
Place a piece of sacrificial wood below the pine baton, and clamp the wood to the workbench. Now place the tip of the spade bit on the marked spot and drill right through. Sand any rough areas.
Use a wood drill bit to make the sash cord holes. The size of the drill bit depends on the cord thickness. Measure and mark the centre spots 200mm from the bottom edges of the pine batons. Clamp the wood to the workbench and drill the holes in each baton. Sand rough areas.
Wrap painter’s tape around each pine baton to ensure a straight paint edge. The size of the painted area depends on personal preference. We wanted to cover roughly a quarter of the wood’s surface for our wardrobe rail.
Use a small paint roller or brush and paint the top sections white. We also painted the pre-made pine racking white. Let it dry and apply a second coat if necessary.
Assemble the wardrobe rail by sliding two pine batons on each side of the dowel.
Cut the sash cord into two 1m pieces and tie a knot on one end of each. Slip the untied part of the cord through the bottom hole of one pine baton and then through the hole on the adjacent baton. Loosely tie the ends of the sash cord.
Pull the legs of the wardrobe rail a little apart to fit the pre-made racking and adjust the sash cord to suspend the shelf. Then secure the sash knots.
Pro Tip: To get the angle of the feet right, place a piece of off-cut wood next to the wardrobe legs and use a pencil to draw a line on the pine batons parallel to the floor. Saw off the angled bits for increased stability and neatness.
To add a base frame, measure the outer most width and depth of the bottom of the wardrobe rail. Cut four pieces accordingly.
Secure the short piece to the outer sides of the legs and the other two pieces to the inside of the front and back of the legs.
That’s it! Hang up clothes, sling bags, scarves or use the DIY rail as a coat hanger in the entryway!
We have done many lights on the blog that by now, we don’t know where to put them anymore! This one that Margaux did for our book a few years ago has always been a favourite though. The Beaded Chandelier-trend, inspired by the Mud Chandelier, is still going strong and this beauty is suitable for both a formal and informal setting. Play around with the colours to suit your interior, and remember to enjoy the process! g x
This post was originally written by Margaux Tait and published in October 2015.
How to make a colour-dipped beaded chandelier
I simply love re-purposing items in a clever and unexpected way! This chandelier is a perfect example of how you can put an old, outdated lamp shade to good use. All it needed was a little magic with colour dipped fabric and marbles – yes, marbles!
It’s one of the featured projects from our book, so go on and get your copy packed with 75 DIY projects! There are some more awesome colour dipping projects in there!
Firstly I have used strips of inexpensive fabric lining and rolled marbles up in them secured by a knot. This knotting technique makes beautiful strings of fabric covered beads to decorate the structure of the chandelier.
With the structure done it was now onto giving it some colour. I did the colour dipping by diluting Chalk Paint with water. I used Henrietta mixed with Provence to create an ombre effect that has a contemporary feel. Shop your chalk paint online here!
To finish off the chandelier, I did colour dipping on strings of paper clips. I used Antoinette for the top pink part and Duck Egg Blue for the bottom. Then I created an elongated tail of paper clips at the bottom dipped in Paris Grey, finishing off the piece beautifully.
This is the perfect show stopper for my home and was lots of fun to do!
It’s funny how past trends pop up like unexpected guests, sometimes welcome and at other times not so welcome. Fringing is one such past treasure, and mind you, a very, very welcome one. At times we feel a bit surprised at how happy we are to see fringing again because, despite the free hippy vibe that borne the style, 60s fringing was a bit drab and depressing. But, no more! Interior fringing has had a makeover and became the It Girl of many contemporary homes (Yay!).
So, dive deep into fringing and come out a swishing Rock Star with our Swishing Fringe Chandelier!
You will need:
Large Lampshade Frame
Small Wire Basket
3m of 150mm Fringing *
*The circumferences of the lampshade frame together with the top and bottom of the wire bin will determine how much fringing you’ll need. Opt for too much fringing than too little.
Remove one end of the lampshade with a saw equipped with a metal blade. Then remove the top and bottom of the wire bin.
These spheres will form the frame for your cascading fringe chandelier.
Flatten sharp edges with pliers or use a metal file to smooth smaller sharp bits.
Measure and knot three sections of 100mm twine from the largest hoop (the lampshade frame) to the middle hoop (the largest part of the wire bin). Repeat the process for the middle hoop towards the smallest hoop.
Pro Tip: Attach the largest hoop to the electrical cord and then knot the other hoops. This will make it easier to ensure the second and third hoops are level.
Once you’re happy with the frame, warm up the glue gun for the next step.
Add the fringing by starting on the lowest hoop. The glue cools downs quickly, so it’s best to work in sections. Apply the glue to a third of the hoop then attach the fringing before moving on to the next segment. Take care not to touch the hot glue when pressing the fringing the frame.
Repeat the process for the middle and top hoop.
Neatly finish the ends by applying hot glue and folding the fringe over on itself.
Once the electrical cord is installed, attach the chandelier and bulb. Switch on the light, bump the chandelier and watch the swishing in action! Now you know how it feels to be a designer – fun, isn’t it?
Have you ever fell in love with a piece of fabric but didn’t think you’d have a use for it? That’s how I felt when I saw this particular shower curtain. It’s a shower curtain: I don’t need or like shower curtains I thought, but the geometric-mandala-y pattern had me obsessed, so I bought it anyway.
Luckily we love repurposing things here at Homeology, which means it didn’t take too long to figure out that the shower curtain was destined to become an oversized decorative canvas!
I adore the result and the fact that this quick wall art DIY is a divine decorating solution for a budget-bound home.
Here’s how to create Huge Wall Decor on a Tiny Budget!
Time: 1 hour
You will need:
3x 32x32mmx2.4m Pine PAR battens, cut into 2x 1.4m, 2x 1.1m (use the remaining pieces for the struts)
Cut the battens or ask the supplier to cut them for you.
Measure and mark the remainder of the battens into 4x 400mm sections for the frame struts. Use a mitre box to cut the pieces at a 45 ° angle. Cut inward from your mark.
Create a corner for the frame by drilling wood screws into the 1.1m and 1.4m battens. Glue the area first for a secure hold. Use your carpenter’s square to ensure a perfect 90-degree angle.
Pro tip: Use two screws per corner for a secure frame. To avoid splitting the wood, offset them from the centre, one on each side.
Fortify the corner by screwing a strut in place.
Repeat steps 2 and 3 until the frame is complete.
For the decorative cover spread the shower curtain face-down on the floor. Then place the frame on top of the shower curtain (near the bottom or top edge of the material to make keeping the design straight easier). Mark the middle of the canvas and frame at the top and bottom lengths to keep the design straight.
Measure 100mm around the frame and cut away the excess material.
Start in the middle of one length of the frame and fold the shower curtain so that the cut edges are concealed and protected from fraying. Use a staple gun to first staple the material to the middle of the back of the frame. Do the same for the other sides to avoid warping the pattern.
Now finish one side at a time by stapling the material from the middle outwards. Do not staple the corners yet.
Keep the material from tearing by folding a rectangular piece of paper or thin cardboard around the edge of the frame before covering with the material. Fold the shower curtain neatly around the corner, almost like wrapping a present. Then securely staple the edges.
Hang up your canvas, sit back and enjoy your clever decorating 😉
Ideas Magazine asked me to make this headboard for their gorgeous July/August issue, and when you get the chance to make something beautiful, you have to grab the opportunity! This is not my first headboard, and it’s certainly not my last! I love headboards. Aside from providing a beautiful focal point in your room, they are super practical – especially if you like reading in bed. This one looks fantastic and costs much less than the store-bought version. And don’t be afraid to tackle this project – it is surprisingly easy to make!
Here’s how to make your very own diamond tufted headboard!
To make a ¾ bed headboard, you will need:
Wooden base for the headboard – we used 1mx1mx19mm strand board
5m fabric (we used charcoal linen)
18x 22m coverable buttons
Thick thread (we used crochet thread)
Staple gun & staples
1mx1mx75mm thick foam
1x Pine PAR 22x44mm x 2.4m batten, cut into 2x 1.2m lengths
4x 3mmx32mm chipboard screws
1m cotton lining
You will also need:
22mm hole saw drill bit
Electric Carving Knife
Drill with 3mm wood drill bit
Use the template to cut the curve at the top of the wooden base. Then give the edges a quick sanding to make sure that there aren’t any rough areas.
Draw a grid of 10x20cm on both the foam and the wooden base. Then carefully mark the position of the buttons using the marker.
Use the hole saw drill bit to cut the holes into the foam only. Place a piece of sacrificial wood underneath to protect your work surface!
Fix the foam to the wooden base using the spray adhesive. Ensure that everything is perfectly straight and allow to dry.
Using the curved edge of the wooden base as a guide, cut the foam to the same shape with the electric carving knife.
Placing the 3mm drill in the middle of each foam hole, drill a hole through the wooden base. This is where each button will be threaded through.
Cover the foam with the batting, securing it at the back with the staple gun. Then cut away any excess batting afterwards.
Cut a small cross into the batting where it covers each foam hole. You should be able to easily see the small hole in the wood once you’ve done this.
Lay the fabric over the batting, making sure that the centre of the fabric is in the centre of the headboard.
Cover the buttons with fabric and attach a 40cm piece of thread to each button. Make a double knot at the back to make sure that they’re secure. A 2-litre milk bottle cap makes the perfect fabric template for a 22mm button!
Using the mattress needle, thread the buttons through the fabric, batting, foam and wood. It is easiest to do this if you place the headboard upright on the floor so that you can catch the needle at the back.
Wind the thread at the back around a screwdriver and pull until you’re happy with the depth of the button on the front of the headboard. Then use the staple gun to secure the thread by stapling it to the wood in a zig-zag pattern.
Tuck the pleats between the buttons as you go, making sure that they’re all facing in the same direction. Once all the buttons are in place, use the staple gun to secure the edges of the fabric at the back.
Measure the height of the bed and secure the legs to the back of the headboard accordingly. Ideally, the lower edge of the upholstery should sit just above the top of the mattress.
Staple the cotton lining to the back to finish off your headboard, tucking in the edges.
I hope you love your headboard as much as I love mine!
Something I’ve struggled to find is decent coasters for mugs or glasses (without spending a fortune). There are lots of standard options out there, but it’s good to have some pieces in your house that are not standard, pieces that say something about you. These cute DIY cement coasters are practical and rustic, but have a touch of glam. They’re easy to make and you can get creative with your own painted designs. Go on, give it a try!
What you’ll need:
Template for mould – Download here Cardboard, preferably with a shiny coating
Thin cork board or felt
Start by printing and cutting out the template. Fold along the dotted lines and tape the hexagon mould closed using masking tape. Using a shiny card, such as the back of an old magazine, will allow the card to peel off the cement easily once it is dry.
Mix the cement with sand and water. I used a ratio of 1 part cement to 3 parts sand, with 1 part water plus a little extra to make a nice soft paste that will take the shape of the mould.
Add mixed cement into each mould to about 5mm and allow to dry for a few days. If the cement is too thin, it will be brittle and break easily. However, if thick enough it is durable, especially once the cork or felt is attached to the underside.
Gently remove the mould once cement is dry. You can see below that normal cardboard can leave some paper residue where the cement was drying on the card. If this happens simply remove as much as you can and then use sandpaper to remove the rest. This is the side that will be the top of the coaster. You can also use sandpaper to give it a bit of a rougher texture on top and to smooth the bottom of the coaster. Be sure to brush all dust off the coaster after sanding it.
Use masking tape to cover parts of the coaster that you do not want spray painted. Lightly spray, ensuring that all exposed cement is painted. Once the paint is fully dry, remove the masking tape.
Use the cork template to cut hexagons, slightly smaller than the coasters, from the cork or felt. Glue the cork onto the underside of your cement coasters and they are ready to use!
Father’s Day is this coming Sunday, and what better way to thank your Dad for his awesomeness than with a R1,000 voucher from Builders Warehouse?? Just tell us Who’s Your Daddy: is it DIY Dad, Garden Dad or Braai Dad?
#1: DIY DAD
Does your Dad love to get his hands dirty in the garage? Is he always working on things, building and tinkering with projects around the house? Then he is most likely DIY Dad, that guy that can fix anything and everything with his tools and tool belt.
#2: BRAAI Dad
We all know this guy! Rain or shine, he’ll make any excuse to light a fire and cook his meat the way God intended. He has every possible gadget that he could ever need for his outdoor culinary adventures. And loves to hang around the fire showing off his skill.
#3: GARDEN Dad
You can spot his exquisite garden from the window of an aeroplane. The borders are perfect, the gravel meticulous and he takes pride in his roses and gladiolas. Not to mention the harvest from his kitchen garden!
I never throw away cut-offs and wood scraps! They have a special place in my small backyard, where they often prove to be little treasure troves of pain, especially when feet find them. But they are treasures nonetheless; throw-away scraps are perfect for odd jobs, and their size and shape largely dictate what you can do with them; which is how this ladder came into the world.
This ladder is not the most original DIY, but it is practical and pretty. Initially, I left it unpainted, but when I saw this West Elm version, I was convinced white paint had to be part of my ladder.
HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN DIY DECORATIVE LADDER
Time: 1 hour without drying between paint coats
YOU WILL NEED:
2 x 35mmx35mmx3.0m timber battens
16 wood screws
Cold wood glue like Alcolin, or a strong wood bonding glue
white water-based paint
Painter’s tape or masking tape
TOOLS FOR THE JOB:
A piece of sandpaper (or electric sander)
Measure and cut battens to 2x 1.5m pieces for the legs and 4x 0.5m pieces for the rungs.
Pro tip: Use a carpenter’s square to ensure the pieces are cut perfectly square. Otherwise, you’ll end up with a wonky ladder.
Sand down the pieces to the desired smoothness. I only sanded the edges, because I wanted a rougher texture.
Mark the positions of the rungs on the sides of the legs: I spaced mine 300mm apart. Remember that the rung will sit in the middle of the measurement. Drill two pilot holes for each rung, one a little higher than the other. This will prevent the wood from splitting and will ensure a stronger hold.
Put a drop of cold glue on the edges of a rung, wait a few seconds, and press it against the inside of the leg where you drilled the pilot holes. Move the wood against each other until you feel the hold securing. Use your carpenter’s square to ensure a 90-degree angle.
Fix the two screws in place for each rung and then allow the cold glue to dry.
Repeat steps 5 and 6 for each rung until your ladder is complete.
(If you want a smoother finish, now would be the time to sand!) Use painters tape to demarcate the areas the be painted. I measured 20cm from the outside leg.
Paint the sectioned area of the ladder. Allow to dry between coats until you’re happy with the finish. Lightly sand in between coats if you want a smooth modern appearance.
Pro tip: Brush away from the painter’s tape, to avoid the paint bleeding. And don’t use too much paint.😉
Remove masking tape. I love this part – it’s stressful and exciting!
Optional: Apply a clear sealant or treat the exposed wood. Wait to dry…and you’re done!
Congratulations! You are now the owner of a self-made Nordic-style ladder ready to hang your towels or blankets! Well done!